Steering Rebuilding

Having built hundreds of steering boxes, control valves, power cylinders and pumps for several of the major Mustang, Falcon and Ford parts dealers across the USA, I have the knowledge and experiance to professionally rebuild your steering components to restore the driving performance of your car.

Complete Rebuild: Thorough teardown, washing, examination, blasting and painting of parts. Polishing of input shaft thrust bearing surfaces. Cleanup of all internal and external threads. Installation of new Input Shaft Thrust Bearings, Sector Shaft Bearings, Sector Shaft Seal and Top Plate Gasket (small bearing boxes). Reassembly and setting of input bearing and gear mesh load settings to factory specifications. Filled with proper viscosity lithium-based lubricant. Unlike some rebuilders, I do not re-use old bearings. CLICK HERE for info on our 2-Year Warranty

Machine Input Shaft Bearing Surfaces: Grind and polish bearing surfaces to provide smooth turning of shaft during bearing load. CLICK HERE to see more details about this operation.
Re-Thread Input Shaft: Turn down and re-thread long input shafts where steering wheel bolts down. CLICK HERE to see more details about this operation.

Steering Boxes are normally refinished in a dark cast-iron paint to simulate the natural cast finish and provide protection against corrosion. If you request, boxes can be brushed to a more natural finish and clear-coat protected for a more concours appearance.
If you send your box in with the Pitman Arm still attached, we will properly remove, clean, blast, paint and reinstall the arm for your convenience at no extra charge.
If your box is disassembled, cleaned for inspection, and found to have other damage or worn components that need replacing, we will contact you before working any futher on your box.
If you want your core returned to you without doing a rebuild, there will be a $ 10.00 service fee to cover our costs of teardown, cleaning and inspection.

Complete Rebuild: Thorough teardown, washing, examination, blasting and painting of parts. Re-tapping of all port and bolt threads. Polishing of spool valve and reaction valve. If spool valve seal surfaces are pitted from rust; machine surfaces down and polish to fresh surface. Light hone of valve housing bore. If needed, centerlinks with missing grease fitting nipple have a new one installed.Repair of minor damage to aluminum end cap. Repair of ball stud socket bore (or centerlink) so bushing slides smoothly inside. Installation of all new seals, gaskets, o'rings, cushion washers, ball stud & seats, bumper & bumper spring, hose seats and ball stud bushing. If needed, we will also install a new centering spring. If needed, we will also replace many of the small internal parts with good used ones. Unit is reassembled and centering spring adjustment is made. Valve is adjusted, lubricated and ready to install as is. CLICK HERE for more information on the parts we replace and the services we provide. CLICK HERE for information on our 1-Year Warranty.

Some rebuilders, both specialty like the Mustang market and national rebuilding companies, do not replace all the components listed above nor perform all the services listed. In fact, some of them do little more than a "wash and paint" rebuild. We always replace the components and service the parts as listed above. Anything less would not be a complete and proper rebuild. It does no good to rebuild a control valve and reinstall a spool valve that has seal surfaces pitted from rust or scratched from use - it will only wear the seals prematurely. Leaving the old grooved hose seats in the housing will only guarantee that the hoses will leak. We replace the parts and perform the services we do because it insures the best possible rebuild available.

Repair Stripped Threads: Drill, tap and install Heli-Coil in stripped out threads where end cap bolts on or ball stud socket bolts on - EACH .....
New Spool Valve: If old valve is to pitted to remachine to original specs, a new spool valve is needed .............................................................
New Aluminum End Cap: If old cap is too damaged to be repaired, a new cap is needed ...............................................................................
Ball Stud Sleeve: If the old socket is severely worn, cracked or irreparably bent, a replacement is needed

Standard Ball Stud Sleeve: Found on most 1967 and later Mustangs and Fords - good used part .............................................................
1965-1966 Mustang & Falcon with 6-cylinder: New repro ball stud sleeve .............................................................................................
Galaxie with power-assisted steering: New repro ball stud sleeve ...........................................................................................................
Pre-1967 Fairlane with power assisted steering: New repro ball stud sleeve ..........................................................................................

Housing with 1/4" pressure port: Typical 1962-1967 style housing ...........................................................................................................
Housing with 5/16" pressure port: Typical post-1967 housing - hose seat or o'ring style ...........................................................................

As you can see, we install and replace many parts that are not part of most "rebuild kits". We also do services and repairs that are usually beyond the ability of the average customer. While it is possible for control valves in excellent internal condition to be rebuilt by a competent mechanic, very few valves are in such good shape. About 90% of the cores I receive for rebuilding have spool valves that need machining or polishing, ball stud sleeves that are distorted so that the bushing will not slide smoothly inside, badly rusted centering spring or a combination of these problems.

Valves come painted in a combination of Stainless Steel, Silver Metallic, Aluminum and dark Cast Iron colors. All components are painted separately and then assembled - not painted as an assembly. We do not paint our control valves "rebuilders black". At customers request we will brush the parts to a bare cast finish and clear-coat seal to give a more natural cast appearance for cars requiring a more "concours" look.
If you send in your control valve with an adjustment clamp still on it or the pitman arm still attached to the ball stud, we will properly remove the items, clean, blast and paint them at no extra charge. If you send your valve in still attached to the centerlink, we will clean, blast and paint the link and thread the control valve on it to the correct adjustment length.
If your control valve is disassembled, cleaned for inspection, and found to have damaged or worn components that need replacing (and are not part of our standard rebuild), we will contact you before working any farther on your valve.

Reseal Rebuild: Thorough teardown, washing, blasting, painting, and reassembly of parts. Installation of all new seals, retainers and hose seats. If applicable, stud boot and correct style crimp-clamp is replaced. Cleanup of stud and shaft threads. Shafts with minor bends repaired. CLICK HERE for more infomation on parts we replace and services we perform. CLICK HERE for information on our 1-Year Warranty.

Power Cylinders are painted with a combination of dark Cast Iron and Stainless Steel paint. At your rquest, we can brush the parts to a natural metal finish and clear-coat seal to give a more natural appearance for cars requiring a more "concours" look.
If you send in your power cylinder with the frame mount bracket still attached, we will clean, blast and paint the bracket at no extra charge. If the power cylinder is still attached to the centerlink, we will remove it properly and reinstall it to the link for you.

Complete Rebuild: Thorough teardown, washing, blasting, painting and reassembly of parts. Installation of all new seals, gaskets and o'rings. Polishing of input shaft. Re-tapping of all housing threads, reservoir retainer and cover bolt threads. Rebuild does not include a new reservoir filter. CLICK HERE for more information on parts we replace and services we perform. CLICK HERE for information on our 1-Year Warranty.

Eaton Pump without Reservoir: Pump only (but includes reservoir mounting and canister gaskets & o'rings) ..............................................
Eaton Pump with Reservoir: Either integral or remote-mount style ............................................................................................................

Eaton Pumps are painted the correct Semi-Flat Black as original and the Reservoirs are painted with Stainless Steel paint for an original look. Some early cars had Ford Engine Gold reservoirs and can be painted that color if requested.
If you send in your pump with the pulley or mounting brackets, we will clean, blast and paint them with the correct color paint at no extra charge.
If your pump is disassembled, cleaned for inspection, and found to have damaged or worn components that need replacing (and are not part of our standard rebuild), we will contact you before working any farther on your pump.

Complete Rebuild: Thorough teardown, washing, blasting, painting and reassembly of parts. Installation of all new seals, gaskets and o'rings. Re-tapping of all housing, pressure fitting and support stud threads. Polishing of input shaft. Rebuilding of internal cam-pack with installation of eight new slipper springs. Minor repair to canister lip, holes and dents. If needed, return hose nipple is repaired and re-clocked to correct position. CLICK HERE for more information on parts we replace and services we perform. CLICK HERE for info on our 1-Year Warranty.

NOTE: Due to production changes and parts replaced during earlier rebuilds, some cam-packs are thicker than others. However, only the thicker of the styles is currently available new. Because of this, some input shafts may require modification to be used with the new cam-pack to prevent excessive input shaft end play and rattling of pump when operating.

Modify Input Shaft for new cam-pack: Weld and trim input shaft to proper length to work with thicker replacement cam-pack ................
Input Shaft Bushing: If old bushing is worn, fragmenting or burned up, a new bushing will need to be pressed into the main housing ............
New Reservoir Canister: A new canister is being reproduced in the 1965-1966 Mustang V8 with air conditioning style. This canister is supposed to replace the hard-to-find can that has the large diameter tilted neck used on these cars. However, there are several problems with this canister that need to be addressed when used for its intended application. CLICK HERE to see what those problems are and what must be done to make this canister a true replacement for the Mustang.

Complete Rebuild: Thorough teardown, washing, blasting, painting and reassembly of parts. Installation of all new seals, gaskets and o'rings. New o'ring installed on cap/dipstick. Rebuild cam-pack with installation of ten new slipper springs. Polishing of input shaft. CLICK HERE for more information on parts we replace and services we perform. CLICK HERE for information on our 1-Year Warranty.

Ford/Thompson style pumps are painted the correct Ford Power Steering Pump Blue metallic paint, unless otherwise requested.. This color is generally correct for cars with factory installed power steering. Some Ford and aftermarket replacement pumps, and pumps used in dealer-installed power steering kits, used a semi-flat black paint. Your pump can be painted this color if requested. Mounting bolts, nuts and ID tags are painted a dark Cast Iron paint to simulate the natural finish of the original parts.
If you send in your pump with the pulley still mounted (recommended since we have the special tools required to remove and install the pulley), we will remove and reinstall the pulley after cleaning, blasting and painting the correct semi-flat black. If you send in your pump with the mounting brackets, we will clean, blast and paint these brackets to the correct semi-flat black or aluminum finish, whichever is correct. There is no extra charge for this.
If your pump is disassembled, cleaned for inspection, and found to have damaged or worn components that need replacing (and are not part of our standard rebuild), we will contact you before working any farther on your pump.

New Cam-Pack Assembly: If old cam-pack slippers, rotor, and/or cam ring are badly worn, scored or burned up, a new unit is needed......
New Plastic Reservoir Housing: Either down-pointing or rear-pointing return hose nipple .........................................................................
New Twist Cap/Dipstick: with new o'ring ..................................................................................................................................................

Ford CII style pumps have the front metal housing painted with AlumiBlast paint. The plastic reservoir housing is left in natural light beige plastic (if presentable) or blasted and painted semi-flat black.
If you send in yur pump with the pulley still mounted ( recommended since we have the special tools required to remove and install the pulley), we will remove and reinstall the pulley after cleaning, blasting and painting the correct semi-flat black. If you send in your pump with the mounting brackets, we will clean, blast and paint these brackets to the correct finish color.
If your pump is disassembled, cleaned for inspection, and found to have damaged or worn components that need replacing (and are not part of our standard rebuild), we will contact you before working any farther on your pump.